Tractorpoint Search for

tractorpoint.com - The leader in Tractors from Compacts, to Utility, to Full Size Tractors! Kubota, John Deere, New Holland, Kioti, Case/IH, and Others. Keywords=Compact Tractor, Kubota Tractors, Kioti Tractors, JD, John Deere Tractors, New Holland, Case Boomer, Used Tractors, Classifieds, Dealer Directory, Tractor Pictures / Images

parts | discussion | photos | podcast | reviews | specs | dealers | classifieds | contact | faq | myProfile | home Login Now | Sign Up

Search for =

Topic

That is exactly the approach I took. I have a JD322 3cyl, liquid cooled, 50" deck that I use to cut 2 acres of grass, and I bought last year a used 855, 4wd, FEL, Backhoe, that I use in my sugar bush for everything from hauling sap to ditching. I could use the 855 to cut the grass, but a mower deck for it is close to the value of my 322, so why would I bother? Also this way, my kids can cut the grass for the neighbours, where the 855 would never fit. My only question now is whether I should trade the 322 in on a front mount mower, seeing as it is primarily used for mowing.

Certainly I would recommend the 2 used tractors model to anyone who has the space and need. The requirements for ground engaging use (weight, traction, tread) and mowing (small size, maneuverable, no ROPs) are sufficently different in my case that it made sense to me. And a good used machine will outlast you anyway if properly maintained.

As to the machines you listed, I would highly recommend you stick to the higher end models (300, 400 series),and look for liquid cooling and multi-cylinder models - they are more reliable, smoother and tend to work better.
The front mount mower solution is something I would also consider, if you are sure that your primary use of the "mowing" tractor will actually be mowing. (I have a front blade for my 322, and I push dirt / snow with it, tow trailers around the yard, etc. which might be more difficult with a front mount)

Big Eddy

Deere for mowing another for snow and dirt
John Deere Tractors
Replies 8 Post by Big Eddy

I bought a 60" Meteor this fall, with manual chute complete for list price of $1440 CDN - That's less than $1000 US given the current exchange. I plowed with a front blade for the last few years, and used the loader as well, and there is no comparison. The Blower is the way to go.

Added benefits - With the blower, you end up with NO banks and no piles of snow. The banks are a big issue in my area, as by end of winter, the drive is exactly the width of my plow blade and, being in a windy spot, the snow loves to blow right over the top and settle in the hole (On my drive!!##!!) so that I have to clear it all over again. With the loader your need to find a good spot to move the snow to, and in my case, unless I start at the back of the lawn, the pile gets too tall to reach the top!
With the blower, the "bank" is much wider and further away from my drive, avoiding the drifting issues.

The only downside is that with the blower the loose gravel is spread over a larger area, but my solution is to keep the blower about 2" off the gravel for the first couple of passes, packing down the snow into a solid layer. Works fine until we get a big thaw like this weekend.

Snowblade For B 2710
Snowblowers / Snow Plows
Replies 17 Post by Big Eddy

There is definitely something not working properly. For those that aren't aware, the 59" front mount snowblower mentioned is designed specifically for the 855 / 955, and is driven off the mid-pto. The blower should have plenty of power, and it sounds like the tractor is not working hard. My 59" blower on my 855 will fire snow at least 20' and I have 7 less HP in basically the same tractor. There are 2 things that I find are required to get good distance. First there needs to be enough snow - your 6" should be enough to properly fill the blower. I remember when I first got my blower I blew 1" off my whole lawn, and it worked fine. Second, the snow can't be too slushy, although it doesn't sound like it is in your case.

So that said I would suggest something isn't hooked up or working properly. Take a look from the front with the blower running (the tractor stationary, chute angled off to side and all that other stuff before the safety police jump on me) and check both the auger and the impeller are turning properly. It sounds to me like the impeller is not turning properly so your 2 stage blower is working more like a single stage blower. Another test would be to check to see if the impeller can be turned by hand (with the blower and tractor off!) as any play or slippage there indicates less power to force the snow up the chute. And the last thing to check is if the impeller is turning the right way. How it could be otherwise I don't know, but it would sure reduce the distance the snow flies.

Hope you figure it out - let us know the result, just in case the same happens to us some day.

John Deere 59 quot Snowblower
John Deere Tractors
Replies 16 Post by Big Eddy

Try www.treetoad.com. Looks like a good solution, and prices are much more reasonable. Anybody tried one?
Big Eddy

Tree spade for JD 4300
Operating and Attachments
Replies 6 Post by Big Eddy

Doesn't sound normal to me!
I've never had any problems, and am interested if either of you are using non-standard tires. If your tires are non-standard, then the front and back wheels will turn at different speeds and something has to slip or give.

Possible cause?

BigEddy

breaking teeth on gears in front axle on a john deere 855
John Deere Tractors
Replies 18 Post by Big Eddy

I would suggest the front blade is much better, at least for snow removal. I have a 322, same blade. Advice - weight is important. I built a ballast box for the rear of my tractor (mounts in the same channel as my rear bagger) that I fill with sand, wet and let freeze. Adds about 200 lbs and makes a huge difference. Chains on the tires are required if using turf tires and adjust pressure to maximum suggested. The problem with all garden tractors and ground engaging implements is traction. They just don't have the weight to be effective. For snow, the best solution is to angle the blade and keep moving. Plow uphill if possible, as backing uphill with the weight of the blade on the front is difficult at best. Use your differential brakes to help when one wheel starts to slip. I have cleared 2' of snow from my 300' drive no problem. For gravel drives, do not use the float setting. You will dig in!! For pavement, float works fine, but traction is even worse.

For gravel and dirt, the blade will effectively spread loose gravel, and will dig soft dirt, but don't expect to cut through sod, or into hard packed dirt. The secret is to go slow and take little bites. I wouldn't want to be trying to do a large project, but I have backfilled around foundations, levelled gravel, and smoothed out a new lawn effectively. For dirt use, unlock the blade to save the tractor! Again, you will find that the wheels will spin and dig a hole if you try to push too much at once. I find that levelling is best accomplished in reverse. Set the blade to float and back up, pulling the material with you.

IMO 3 pt blades do a better job of levelling, but are not as effective for pushing dirt, or for snow. For snow, you essentially need to drive over the snow first, and about 4" is enough to stop a 318 with turfs, chains or not. Going in reverse is just hard to do!

Hope this helps
Big Eddy

Front Blade or Rear
Operating and Attachments
Replies 5 Post by Big Eddy

I asked my mechanic a similar question last week, and he told me that the "new" spec was 1/4" movement on the cylinder every minute. It the cylinder rod travel was less than 1/4" per minute the unit was within spec for new. For used, he indicated that about double that would still not affect operation.
However, if there is any visible leakage from the cylinder around the rod, he recommended repacking that immediately.

Big Eddy

7 Backhoe - leak down
John Deere Tractors
Replies 5 Post by Big Eddy

MikeC.

If you refer to the manual that came with your 70A loader, there is a section that lists the expected cycle times for raising and lowering. As part of the original setup of the loader, a test should be performed, especially on lowering the boom. It is possile to replace the orifice in the line with a different one if the rate of descent is incorrect. All the details are in the manual, as are the specs for each of the cylinders. I'll have to test my loader to see if I can lift the front wheels off the ground with the boom alone. If I recall correctly I can (855, with 70A loader and 7 backhoe)

Big Eddy

Loader down force
Loaders Back Hoes
Replies 15 Post by Big Eddy

In my experience, the more weight on the front of the chain, the better. I use
a 4 foot section of well casing. It's about 10" dia, and weighs about 80lbs.
Anything less and the front of the chain link lifts off the ground as you pull it.
A couple of 4x4 pieces on the back end keep the fence straight. Definitely low
tech, but it works well. Be sure to level first with a blade or harrow, as
this rig will NOT fill in any hollows, or remove any humps, but will smooth the
surface to the existing contours. If your lawn is on a slope, it is a good idea
to scratch the surface at 90degrees to the slope prior to spreading seed. Stops
it running off with the rain. A leaf rake works well. And don't water the ground or the seed before you roll!!!

Chain Link Fence Drag
Operating and Attachments
Replies 6 Post by Big Eddy